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We had a magical last day in Vancouver. After our usual later start - without too many moans and groans - we set off for the Sky Train station and bought a Day Pass which costs $8. We then boarded one of the frequent trains to Waterfront Station.
By the way Sky Trains do not have a driver. We discovered this disconcerting fact on the way to Braid in Coquitlam on Tuesday night. We realised that we could see both ends of the train and no driver. Apparently they are all controlled from one central point. It does feel slightly odd but it is only because we are used to the joys of Scotrail. The other difference is that all trains are "Fare Paid" which means you put money into a machine and buy a ticket. There are no ticket offices at the stations. We have been told that random checks are made but we have yet to see one and yet everyone buys their tickets. We noticed this in other cities as well. Face it the Canadians are either very honest or afraid of getting caught. When we commented on the lack of real rules we were told there are all sorts of rules but the country is so big it is hard for many to be enforced. For instance, in Vancouver you are only allowed to water your garden on certain days according to whether you are an odd or even number. Bearing in mind the amount of rain they get this water ban appears to err on the cautious side.
Back to our day ... the Sky Train links to the Sea Bus, a frequent ferry service between downtown and North Vancouver. We walked onto that, 15 minutes later we were in North Vancouver and Longsdale Quay a truly superb market and shopping destination. We then caught a bus from there to Grouse Market and took the cable car to the top. However it was 3000 feet higher up and colder and mistier there. We did see bears and a lumberjack show...
It was another occasion when our brains were wired to stupid. We were staying in the city so we were in city mode. We grabbed sunglasses and a waterproof and headed off to explore North Vancouver. We explored Longsdale Quay which offers a mix of fruit and vegetable stalls, craft stalls and food concessions with independent shops on the floor above. Shopped out we hopped on the bus to the mountain. Funny that word "mountain" did not ring a bell, after all we have spent a considerable time in the unpredictable mountains with the colder weather, mist, mosquitoes and bears. Anyway we were completely unprepared - I had my crocs on, Eilidh her converse, Gordon his open toed sandals. The bus ride from the quay to the mountain was between 15 and 20 mins and then the cable car took 6 minutes. We stepped off into another world of mist, rain and cold. We were assaulted by zillions of blasted mosquitoes and there were bears. It was all a shock to the system. Catching the efficient transit links we were back in downtown in 40 minutes. Shopping and people watching - what a contrast. As it was our last night Eilidh agreed we could have sushi again as long as we followed it by crepes on the way home.
The pictures below show Gordon and I with Larry and Loreen at the Beach, Dr Sun Yat Sen Garden, Gastown steam clock and environs and creatures we encountered whilst on Grouse Mountain.
Well not much I can add except to say that it has just been awesome. All expectations more than met and exceeded. Flicking back through this rambling blog is a great reminder of the times we have had, but it makes it more difficult to come to terms with the fact that, in less than 24hrs, we will be back home. It goes without saying that I am going to be sorry to leave.
I hope the pictures have given a good account of our trip. No doubt I will bore the pants of some of you poor folk with the full package of pics back in Glasgow, but until then, its bye from the three of us here in Vancouver.
The morning started with us being unable to see 100 feet in front of ourselves due to a thick fog! However as we got dressed and breakfasted we began to be able to see the boats in the harbour again. By the time we made it round to the rendezvous point for the trip we had clear blue skies.
The trip was very successful with us seeing Bald Eagles, Harbour Seals, Californian Sea Lions and a mother and calf Humpbacked Whale. We also visited the Broken Islands which have a fascinating history relating to the 1st Nations and their contact with European explorers. In addition we were the only people on the trip so had the undivided attention of the guide.
We have visited the two main beaches which are between Ucluelet and Tofino and are renowned for their surfing. Both were great and had the added benefit of having a vast number of logs washed up on the beach which were put to good use making shelters and "public art" installations. Eilidh enthusiastically added to this collection between playing Frisbee and covering us both in sand.
Tomorrow is an early start and longish drive to Victoria.
Hi! I loved the whale watching! It was amazing how big they were! It was extra special because we saw a mother and a calf together. The whales did mini dives but we never saw the Calf's tail, the boat driver said he had never seen the Calf's tail! From now on so I do not have to say the whales all the time I am going to name the calf Dave and the mother Leanne! Leanne weighed about forty thousand kilograms!!! she was about fourteen metres in length!!! Wow! Dave weighed about a quarter of that! The driver was called Nat. He said those two whales have been in the area for about ten days! The boat was also really good because we were the only ones on the tour.
When we were at the beach I made a shelter out of wood. It looked pretty pathetic compared to some of the big ones but good compared to some of the small ones! Just to confirm, if mum says that I woke her up by pouring sand on her back I didn't, she was awake when I poured sand on her back!!!
Today when I went to the beach I played Frisbee, It was really good fun! I went in the water today for a paddle but on my way back out i got soaked by a wave! I dried quickly though! Well I better go for now! Au Revoir xxxxx
The boat trip was exhilarating, thrilling, inspirational and just sheer fun. Making our way through the fog bank (it had cleared at the harbour but was still out on open sea) was kind of spooky but peaceful. We heard the sea lions before we saw them - sounding remarkably similar to old men hawking and coughing in the morning. The fog seemed to lift as we reached a small rocky island covered in sea lions. These were Stellar Sea Lions which stay there all year round. They were fascinating to watch and seemed much larger than I remember seeing them on wildlife programmes. We then went back out into the fog chasing a sighting of whales reported by another of the whale fleet. Nat stopped the Zodiac's engines and we all looked for signs of blow outs, bubbles, noise or glassy water. After about 5 minutes we saw them breaking through the water. Photographs and words are not really adequate when describing this experience. We followed them for around an hour and were soon joined by the other boats out whale watching. Eventually we left them for the Broken Islands. Eilidh particularly enjoyed the high speed bumpy parts as the boat planed and we surged over the waves.
In the afternoon we went to Wickaninnish Beach and I am sorry to say we all ended the day with lobster red faces as we had forgotten that boats and sun equal extra rays. Added to this it was a pleasant 20 degrees with a sea breeze so we did not put any cream on - having slavishly lathered it on when the temperature hit 30 degrees plus. Coming from Scotland and being experienced beach explorers you would think we would have remembered. I made up a potion of almond oil and lavender and we slapped that on last night. We were particularly scary by firelight as we toasted marshmallows as our faces were redder than the embers and glistened with the oil - we were the ones who were cooked. We have been following Mary's lead and using lavender oil as a cure all for mossie bites, sunburn and cuts. It does work, or is as effective as anything else...
Further to the comments above about Eilidh building stuff out of driftwood I should explain that these were great big lumps and logs of wood that had to be dragged or carried by two. There were no sand castles but there were driftwood sculptures and shelters that were unique and added a truly otherworld experience to the beach.
This morning it was back to factor 30 and hats. We spent a very pleasant few hours strolling and shopping in Tofino which is full of galleries, unusual craft shops and funky offerings. Once the cash was exhausted we headed for Long Beach and it really is long and endless. It also had its fair share of bleached driftwood structures that delineated individual space: no need for Germanic towels here when a strutting turret can make much more of statement.
The drive from Nanaimo to Ucluelet was absolutely stunning. This place is magical and driving along the coast and then over the mountains and past the lakes speaks to my soul. I know that sounds a bit daft but it really is an emotional and visceral response but in a way that makes me feel deeply at peace. Every since we drove down the sea to sky highway from Whistler and down to Horseshoe Bay and over to Vancouver I have been having conversations with Dad in my head. I now know why after his trip to this area in the 70s he came back and announced he wanted to emigrate to the Vancouver/Vancouver Island area. The combination of water/boats/scenery/amenities/people and lifestyle are just so appealing. We have been trying to give ourselves a reality check by reiterating that this is a holiday and we could not do all this if we lived here etc. Anyway enough of my fanciful mutterings.
On the way to Ucluelet we stopped at a place called Coombs which is one of the strangest places ever. It was developed to attract tourists by creating western style/fanciful architecture with frankly weird and tasteless statuery, a mini golf course complete with a paddle steamer on land, a market with goats on the roof and a mix of crafters. We spent a couple of hours here wandering around and sampling the lychee sorbet, orange and liquorice ice cream and other flavours. We wandered into a First Nation gallery staffed by a Glaswegian who has lived in Canada since 66. The art was inspiring and her chat was good.
Our wild life count went up today as a Bald Eagle soared around us at breakfast, 3 Elk were wandering through Coombs and we saw a BEAR CUB at the side of the road. Awesome. Ucluelet Campsite is another sorted campsite and we look out onto the Harbour. We went into town for dinner and after some aimless wandering and misdirection found a restaurant called Driftwood that served excellent food complete with a drunken chef chatting to guests. We walked backed to the camp in time to see the sunset over the harbour. Early to bed tonight as we are going whale watching tomorrow morning.
As Sally has said above there is something about this place. Vancouver Island is as spectacular as all the rest of BC. I had a bizarre coincidence on the way here. There was a bit of a delay at Horse Shoe Bay for the ferry over to the Island so this allowed for a little browsing in the village.
As we were looking at some First Nation art work I heard a Glasgow accent which seemed vaguely familiar. Turned out it was one of my customers from the craft fair who had bought some pictures of Glasgow as a gift for his cousin who he was visiting on Vancouver Island!!!
Pleased to report that the gifts were very well received.
Coombs was very bizarre but was redeemed by the amazing food court, the Canadian take on the House of Bruar, and the First Nation Art gallery previously mentioned. In the established format of these posts I have some pictures below.
The drive to Ucluelet was fantastic. Occasional opportunities for RV rallying, many twists and turns with steep inclines but at least it was paved, as they say over here. All the way we were afforded views of snow capped mountains whilst the road followed rivers, lakes and gorges.
Ucluelet is in essence a fishing town. Commercial fishing, from what we can gather is as highly regulated and controlled as it is at home with boats having strict quotas and only so many days in which they are allowed to fish. There is however a large fleet of sport fishing vessels with charters starting at 1000 Canadian dollars a day.
We have booked on a whale and wildlife spotting safari for tomorrow. So far we are the only customers they have so fingers crossed it stays that way.
