Kamloops and Surrounding Area

Kamloops!

The drive from Clearwater to Kamloops saw the countryside gradually change to a semi arid climate. This would have been good if we didn’t still have the wet cold weather following us! Also on the way we passed through a vast area that had been affected by an extensive forest fire. We later discovered that this had occurred in 2003 and had been devastating for the local Kamloops community with over a 1000 homes destroyed and the loss of numerous businesses and therefore job opportunities.

The RV site is a bit disappointing. The water park beside it, which we thought would be a nice attraction for Eilidh, has been closed for 3 years (not due to the fire!). The site is beside the main highway, which runs adjacent to the main trans continental railway! Ho Hum. We should have trusted our gut feelings when all efforts online to gleam some information about the site drew blanks.

Kamloops itself is not to bad, probably about the size of Stirling but without the architectural features of a castle! The main downtown area is a good mix of boutique shops, restaurants and coffee houses, the Cowboy Coffee Shop being particularly good.

Today, Saturday, we went on a bit of an exploration of the Shuswap Lakes and the upper Okanagan valley. What fantastic scenery with inland lake marinas, ranches and vineyards all competing for your attention. They are also very big on fruit and vegetable growing, with numerous farm shops and co-operative style fruit markets along the way. The one we stopped at was a bizarre mix of fruit market, historical farm, gift shop, and petting zoo! Bought a supply of exotic fair and took some pics.

Hi! I am very pleased because I managed to get the Harry Potter book!!!!!!!!! I didn’t think I would be able to! So far it is extremely good! I am quite excited cos tomorrow we go to the ranch, this means I will be able to go western riding! Yeehah! Em……… it’s surprising with the amount of things we have done that I’m starting to run out of things to say! This may have to do with the fact that I am pretty tired! So nite nite luv Eilidh xxxx

We left Kamloops (pretty bare and brown hills around the Thompson River) and hit the Shuswap Lakes. This area is like the best part of the highlands all distilled together – they even use names like Fintry, Glencoe and Balmoral! The lakes are full of boats and watercraft but all powered by motors. The biggest thing is houseboats which we investigated closely when we stopped at Salmon Arm. These come with all life’s essentials including penthouse cabins, fireplaces, home cinemas and a hot tub… As we turned from the lakes and moved towards the Okanagan area the countryside became more cultivated with lots of fruit some of which we bought from the Fruit Barn near Vernon – the cherries and raspberries are lush.

Navigating our way around a particularly twisty corner we saw a group of bikers approaching on the opposite side of the road – once Eilidh got to 100 she stopped counting. I know it’s a cliché but everything in North America comes in extra large whether it’s the local Biker Chapter, food or pickup trucks. We have discovered that pick up trucks are an essential item in most households, granted the weather and distances make this more practical than at home, but what they are there for is the recreational stuff. Just about every home has a motor home, trailer (sort of caravan) boat or canoe in their back yard.

I have been trying to get my head round this area of Canada. It is beautiful and I would love to spend more time here but it is like it is about 20 years behind the world. I think it is the combination of Dutch barns – often stained red with white paintwork, the clapboard houses and the wooden slightly amateurish advertising hoardings that make it all feel part of another time. The houses are interesting as many have been self built and have a correspondingly wobbly, rustic and dishevelled appearance and others are just so slick.

We have been crossing the route of a group of American Tourists who are travelling in a group of 20 RVs and have been at some of the same sites as us. They all drive together and there is a huge bus like RV for the staff. We haven’t worked out if the staff drive all the RVs but they definitely do a lot of the setting up and mass cooking. Each RV is identified with a yellow sticker and number and the occupants have nice yellow passes round their necks matching them to the appropriate RV. I suppose it makes rounding them up easier for the staff. A trip like that must mean no planning and no need for thought just hop in and go, but you can say you have RVd round Canada – an ideal holiday for these guys.

Blog By Campfire

Here we are in Clearwater blogging by the campfire, while Sally and Eilidh toast marshmallows! The journey from Jasper was, on the whole, a very enjoyable 4hr drive through some stunning countryside as we followed the meandering North Thomson River.

I was a little sorry to leave Jasper, as I felt there was still a lot to discover and explore in this area. The people struck me as being very friendly and extremely laid back, even by Canadian standards. Given a choice I would definitely choose to spend time here rather than Banff.

On our journey to Clearwater we stopped off at Mount Robson, Canada's highest peak (pic below), worth seeing but an obvious tourist trap. From Mnt Robson to Clearwater there was a definite change in the topography with the introduction of some farm land and commercially cultivated land. Also towns and villages seemed to sprawl in a totally unplanned way on both sides of the highway.

Today we took a trip to Helmeckn and Dawson Falls...once the thunder storms had abated. Both were very spectacular, Helmckn is almost 3 times the height of Niagara.

Hi Sally here, I was sorry to leave Jasper too and the guys at Peak Motors deserve a mention for their efforts to fix our oven - way beyond the call of duty. This area we are in is quite different. The most obvious difference is that there is more than one kind of tree - campsite has lots of birch trees and other bushes and tree things.

Making the fire meant Gordon had to get to grips with an axe and unlike our nearest neighbours we did not chuck some fuel on the fire, we did it the boy scout way! We did not see any bears today but the notice at the campsite office says there is a bear that has been seen in and around the camp. Perhaps one wild bear will be our limit. When we stopped at Fleurs Bakery we met a German family who had been up at Dawson Falls the same time as us and they asked us about the bear. We missed it. Perhaps that is why we saw an Elk fleeing across the road in front of the RV. It is a bit of a contradiction sitting here by the fire and tappng into the free Wifi.

Glad to hear from Stuart, Rachel and Kirsty plus Mum and the "five of us", anyone else out there?

Most importantly discovered peach and ruby red grapefruit cider today. Wow! 7% and it tastes so much better than plain old cider. Did not try apple cider as that seemed a bit strange but will be sampling pear next. Gordon slowly working his way through the Canadian beers.

Hi! i am having a great time! I'm surprised that there are still no signs of crazyitis! today in between rain and thunderstorms i went for a swim and played Frisbee piggy in the middle with a couple of Canadians, it was really good fun! i cant believe we have nearly been away for 2weeks and we have had the motor home
for just over a week! but this means there is still a lot of time for me to getcrazyitis!!!!!!!!!! night night xxxxxxxx love eilidh

Jasper Town

Drive to Jasper and first impressions of Jasper
Jasper is some 250 kms ahead of us but I am really looking forward to the drive as it is through the Rockies. We get away in good time, which is a surprising feat in itself. The RV cockpit is stocked with essential items; water, sweets, maps, guides and an ipod, for the journey.

The scenery is just breathtaking, deep gorges flowing with glacier melt water, vertical mountain peaks, rugged skyline and deep blue lakes surrounded by 300 – 500 year old Douglas firs. Every turn offers a new and inspiring view. We had chosen a few stops on the way that seemed to offer the best of the views but often I would turn a corner and wish for the opportunity to stop but their was none available. Perhaps it was best this way as otherwise it would have taken us about 3 days to do the trip instead of one.

I will let the pictures below speak for them selves of the stops we made at Peyto Lake, Bridal Veil Falls and the Columbia Ice Fields.

The campsite at Jasper is more secluded with Caribou/Elk roaming free through out the site. Whilst having dinner in our shady pitch one of them wandered past our RV quite unconcerned by our presence.

Jasper itself is a very pleasant frontier town. We found some good eateries and stores as well as the tourist trap stores. Jasper also has a small cinema so after a restful day we all went to see the HP film. Tomorrow is white water rafting on the Athabasca River. Then we are off to Clearwater and the wilderness of Wells Grey National Park.

I would just like to say that I find Jasper a much more pleasant and interesting town to visit than Banff. Banff did suffer from the road works through the main street but it appeared to be a made to measure tourist town whilst Jasper appears to be a community as well as a tourist trap. We were talking to a young guy who served us in the Liquor Store last night who said the actual population is 4500 which swells to 20000 in the summer. Connaught Drive, the main street which looks over the railway, has its fair share of tourist stores but walk one block up and there is more variety. Although many of the stores are still aimed at tourists - not surprising given its location - there is a pleasant a laid back atmosphere.


As to Stupid American Tourists I would like to say that not ALL American Tourists we have met fit this criteria. If travelling independently from a “Tour” they can appear almost normal and pleasant. We have met some fellow Scots who are easily identifiable. Species markers include burnt red skin, strap marks and arms and legs covered in mosquito bite lumps. On that subject Gordon, in particular, is suffering from the bites and we are now on our third brand of insect repellent. The first two contained large amounts of toxic DDET and still did not work. Our latest is citronella based which smells strongly but we are not yet convinced it works. We also have three brands of antihistamines, creams and sting soother. Any suggestions as to what would work are welcome. These mosquitoes are considerably larger than midges and some of the bites we have are probably black flies. Bear in mind that the drug stores can be limited in what they offer.

For those interested in how to Bear proof your site here is some information taken from the Jasper campsite leaflet:
“Bears pick up on even the slightest scent that smells like food and that’s why a range of items are considered attractants: food, pet food, grills and cookstoves (so far I get it but next…), insect spray, soap, dish rags and yes even toothpaste. To bear proof your site, you must reduce or eliminate odours from yourself, your campsite, your tent and your clothes.”

Okay I read this just after I had showered with my Pomegranate and Melon shower gel and lemon shampoo. I then carefully applied my lovely smelling Ambre Solaire lotion and topped it with a coating of citronella. I was now ready to step outside and walk in the woods … I can’t help wondering if I am now bear proof. I forgot to add that I also added a liberal sprinkling of repellent to my clothes.

Hi, Eilidh here! I just wanted to inform everyone that I have not been eaten by any Bears or Caribou! Also I still do not have crazyitis!! That’s all for now! xxxx

Just back from the white water rafting. Fantastic time, just right for us behginers. Saw our first black bear just after it had had a swim, as we floated down the Athabasca River. We all had aq dip in the river…4 degrees c! Eilidh forgot to hold on and went on her own float down the river, the guide caught her just as sally was about to launch herself in after Eilidh. Decided that as we were in full tourist mode we would by the cd of pictures after the event so have included a couple here.

Not Jasper!

Weeks, if not months in the planning. Itinerary on a spreadsheet, route planned out and possible attractions and activities identified, yet well still managed to be organised to leave Tunnel Mountain Campsite a day early!

Paid a visit to the Kooteny National Park instead and in particular, the Paint Pots. All was going swimmingly until I glanced at the petrol gauge, which was showing empty,…or so I thought. Gas stations (see how easy the lingo is) are few and far between so panic began to set in.

However, Sally soon deducted that there was a station not far from our destination and that all being well we should make it there! Unfortunately although we had bought the most up-to-date guidebooks the gas station had not been existence for at least 5 yrs! The next station was 45kms away but there had been a power cut earlier and it could not be guaranteed to be back on…
Attempting to stay calm as we were now in the middle of nowhere with no chance of making it to any gas station I approached a fellow RVer for help and advice. These good helpful folk came over to our RV and quickly solved the problem. I had totally misread the gauge and we had infact a ¼ of a tank left!!!

The Paint Pots were well worth a visit. These ochre mud flats were used originally by 1st Nation peoples to decorate tepees and themselves. Later the mud was excavated and transported to a paint factory in Calgary.

Hey everyone! My hand has just about recovered! But typically yesterday I fell over and cut my knee! I don’t want to upset anyone but I have no spoon updates! The campsite is really good and every so often there are some swings! I am very exited because tomorrow (the 17th) we are going white water rafting!!!! I can’t believe that tomorrow will be a week since we got the motorhome, time is flying by! Xxxx Eilidh

Sally here, I am glad to report that I have managed to control by hissy fits – perhaps, as the threat of bears has not been so high. The Paint Pots were mystical and fun and Eilidh got a lot of ochre mud on her as I thought we could collect some and dry it out for her Journal. Gordon laughed at me when I expressed surprise that it does not easily come off skin and clothes. He pointed out it was the highly concentrated mineral used in ochre paint – ho hum.


The drive through the Icefields Parkway was absolutely stunning and we stopped at Peyto Lake. Bridal Veil Falls and the Columbia Icefield. The trip on the Snocoaches to the Glacier was interesting, cold and breathtaking despite the presence of the ubiquitous stupid American Tourist. More on Icefields next blog from Eilidh and Gordon who will tell more about this and today’s planned trip to Miette Hot Springs.

How to Identify Stupid American Tourists
These strange creatures are easy to identify as they helpfully wear a large name badge pinned to their polyester jacket or in the case of the extremely stupid sub species a great big plastic holder round their neck displaying their NAME IN CAPS. There are no instructions on what to do if they are lost like Paddington Bear but their tour company is displayed prominently.

Another way to identify these strange creatures is by the way they nod gormlessly and answer (wrongly) the tour guide’s questions. Marge and Norm – these appear to be common names are aged around 55 plus and the majority of them favour a fuller figure and check polyester. Norm may wear a dashing sports jacket and will have white cotton or blue baseball cap perched on his head. Ellen is a thinner, more orange and wrinkled version who strides ahead blazing the trail to the toilets from the snack bar for the other wrinklies.

These tourists do not walk. For instance when they reach the top of Banff Gondola they stagger and waddle round the observation deck in large clumps looking for the soda and muffins. It is not possible for their GM bodies to walk 0.5 km to the summit. This behaviour is also displayed at the Glacier where they tentatively place an open toed sandal on the ice and squeal. With a great deal of effort they move the necessary 5 yards for the photo opportunity and scurry back into the snocoach. More on this strange wildlife in future posts.